Lure of the Himalayas Part II

While I was writing the blog on my trip to the UK I realized I had not finished the one about my previous trip and also that 2014 has been an incredible year for the wanderluster in me!!

Part II of the Himalayan Adventure involved some of the most beautiful landscapes I have seen, the birthday of a very special friend and realizing that women travelling alone is still not the norm in our country! Our drive from Dharamshala to Dalhousie was a fantastic journey through the hills, streams suddenly surfacing into waterfalls, rivers flowing by under bridges, wind, rain and a special Himalayan rainbow.

1) Dalhousie finally provided us the weather we imagined when we planned our trip! I had to pull out the jacket and tuck into the thick quilt in the night!

2) Hotel Megha view; its nestled between the mighty Deodars and that's all you can see from your balcony as well. There are all manner of animals living among these trees and it is their calls that will put you to sleep and wake you up in the morning. We were treated so much like family here that the waiter would walk in without so much as a knock and be worried about us going out after dark!

3) The celebration of a birthday in a balcony with our illicitly procured Old Monk, giggles and memories from over a decade. It was a special way to celebrate our friendship and just sitting in that balcony we knew our trip was made.

4) The hike to the Chamunda Devi temple with the Himalayas keeping us company throughout was spectacular to say the least. Its beauty further accentuated by the lovely weather in the form of a cool breeze and a light drizzle.

 5) There's something about the people in the hills and how their cars always play Bollywood music from the 90s; such a delight to the desi girl in me and it takes me back to a simpler time, a time free of Baby dolls and full of happily ever after love!

6) The trip to the Chamba valley and the massive Chamera dam built on river Ravi. As clichéd as it sounds, a boat ride in the river with hills on both sides and crazy kids screaming and splashing water is a quintessential part of travelling in India in the summer vacation!

7) Travelling by a rickety bus from Dalhousie to Pathankhot, one of the sleepiest train stations I have ever been in, serving one of the yummiest Rajma chawals I have ever eaten.

8) Chandni Chowk, silver shopping and Parathe wali gali formed the perfect ending to the perfect trip.

As we boarded our flight back to Hyderabad, we felt refreshed, rested and peaceful. Our Himalyan sojourn had been exactly what we wanted, imagined, dreamed of; a much needed respite from the heat, the meetings and the god forsaken excel sheets!!

Lure of the Himalayas- Part 1

Part 1 - Dharamshala > Mcleod Ganj

Two weary souls, eyes strained by the glare of the laptop, brains exhausted by spreadsheets and meeting reminders set out at the crack of dawn chasing the Himalayas and a week away from the madness of the corporate life, a week to recoup, recharge and rediscover the wanderlust that lay buried in their hearts.

When we landed among the snow capped Himalayas and the
air hostess announced that the outside temperature was 40 degrees, we almost booked our return back into the air conditioned comfort of our air plane. But, when we stepped out of the airport and into our cab driven by Shankar we realised that things would only go uphill from here. As we made the ascent through the Deodar shaded winding roads to our tiny guest house in Mcleod Ganj we felt the heat dropping along with our stress levels and the cool breeze blowing away any residual thoughts we may have had about those spreadsheets. One cat nap later we were refreshed and ready to explore Mcleod ganj! This little town is full of steep climbs and can prove quite the reality check on your fitness levels. The upside of this though is that by the time you reach the market square your appetite is raging, and fortunately enough you find yourself right in front of Mcllo Restaurant. Good music, excellent ambiance and delicious food made for the perfect first night in Mcleod Ganj.

The next morning I set off to explore the town as its residents awoke and my travel companion snoozed, tea shops and cafes pulled up their shutters, vendors started displaying their wares and sleepy kids were being ferried to school by their mums. I love experiencing a place as it awakens; being a silent spectator as it comes to life! And this slowly became my unwinding routine on this trip.

In terms of the sight seeing in Dharamshala and Mcleod Ganj, we did the whole route comprising of the Gallu Matha Temple (the starting point of the trek to Triund), Bhagsunag waterfall, the war memorial, the tea gardens, Dal lake, the Norbunglika Institute etc. but the only things worth the time and effort I felt were the Dalai Lama temple, the mountain view from Naddi, and the HPCA stadium of course! Spend your time instead chilling in cafes, talking, laughing and drinking in the views along with your Mocha. Mcleod ganj market is also a great place to buy silver. Have patience and look through the line of stores because some of them stock beautiful unique pieces; silver and otherwise. I also ate on this trip the best carrot cake I have EVER eaten; at Moonpeak Coffee shop and gallery near the HDFC ATM. Absolute heaven. And go early because they do run out of them!

The things about these three days that will stay with me are

1)  The people; warm and friendly and genuinely not interested in your money!! 

2) The jaw dropping views of the snow capped Dauladhar range from Naddi. Make sure you have the time to sit there and stare at them and forget the hours passing by.

3) The amazing dexterity and patience with which the cab drivers execute the crazy inclines in their Altos. In 3 days I didn't hear one horn or one abuse. We were particularly impressed with our driver Shankar, such an amazing person, it was like a group of friends driving around, singing old bollywood songs. I was actually sad to say bye when we left.

4) The quaint little town that Mcleod Ganj is with its narrow winding roads, smiling Tibetan folks and the vibrant prayer flags fluttering in the cool Himalayan breeze.

4) That spectacular Carrot Cake! Must find a way to duplicate it. :)

                                                                              

This here is our itinerary for a week. It may not be entirely geographically correct, but the distances are accurate! :P

Sun on my face and sand at my feet; Gokarna!

2013 has been an incredible roller coaster of ups and downs, and I was craving some quiet time; to unwind, relax and basically recharge my batteries for the craziness that I already know 2014 is going to be!! And one of the best decisions I have made was to choose Gokarna as  my year end vacation spot! Honestly I have not been to many places in India still untouched by the ravages of tourism. I had the best time and came back feeling so refreshed!

I have compiled below a list of my favorite experiences in this lovely beach destination!

1) Swimming in the balmy clear waters of Kudle beach! Or just lying on the water with the sun on my face, and the sound of the waves, nothing better to calm down the noises in my head. With such few people and awesome clean waters it felt like my own personal infinity pool.

2)  The trek to Paradise beach from Om beach; over and around the hill, guided by our own little doggie GPS, he waited while we caught our breath and took our pictures of the breath taking view!

3) Paradise beach; easily the most serene, empty beach I have been in! Just us on the rocks, and the water lapping gently at our feet and a lone boat in the sea. It was exactly what I needed to calm my crazy brain and be in the present.

4) Nirvana cafe; good food, lovely people, a friendly welcoming vibe, an excellent view of the ocean and the best mint tea on Om beach!

5) Doggies galore and so adorable; sleeping in the shade of the sunbathers, digging trenches to find the cooler sand, splashing around in the waves with their human and canine buddies, was such a delight to just watch their care free happiness.

6) The pace of life; breakfasts that merged into lunches, lying around in the cafes guzzling beer, the people competing with the dogs in the lack of an agenda in their day, one of the wonderful things about vacationing in a place that doesn't have much to "do"!

7) Freedom; to loiter,no stares no hooting no calling me sexy, I finally felt comfortable enough in India to wear my bikini!!

Yoga on Om beach

8) Food; while the food is not that brilliant in Gokarna, there are some must tries. The falafel and beetroot juice in Nirvana cafe; divine! And the hash browns in any cafe! They are nothing like the real hash browns but yummy nonetheless. The coffee shake in Namaste cafe is also noteworthy. Its important to also mention here that alcohol other than beer is available on Kudle beach. Good reason to spend your afternoon there!

Falafel at Nirvana Cafe

9) Location, location, location: I love the combination of the hills and the sea. Makes for some splendid views and for some very interesting walks. The boat ride back from Paradise to Om beach also highlights this aspect of Gokarna!

Overall, Gokarna proved to be a hidden gem, close to nature, wonderful people and an environment conducive to detoxing your mind and body!! Im seriously considering making it an annual pilgrimage!

The walk to Paradise beach!

The mandatory selfie!

Just another travelogue

Volumes have already been written by more eloquent folks about France and the wonderful experiences it offers to its visitors. I thought long and hard about what I can say that would not sound like I just ‘copy-pasted’ things from other articles I found online. I realised that the special beauty of my experience was that I stayed only with French families, sleeping on their beds (the French are too nice to offer you their couch), having dinner with the families, having them show us around on weekends, it was fantastic! Hopefully at least some of what I am about to blab away about is new and interesting.

Here is my version of the must dos if and when you visit this fascinating country.

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Walking down the stairs into the city of Lyon

          Walk!: Trust me when I say that this is THE way to see France. All you need is a map, metro routes and a good pair of walking shoes. Take the Metro to one destination everyday and chalk out a walking route, visiting all the sights in the area. Sometimes you should also wander in the narrow lanes to discover the many hidden treasures. This is especially fun in a big city like Paris. Cosy bars, quaint restaurants, quirky stores, inspiring street art; it’s in the narrow lanes that the heart of the country lies. 

Christmas festivities in the streets of Montpellier

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Quirky souvenirs being sold on the banks of the Seine

    

     

    

   Take yourself to a Marche: Marche is French for market and there are many versions of these happening in every city. Local producers of meat, cheese, fruits and vegetables, wine and many other delights gather to sell their produce. There is no better way of experiencing the famous gastronomy of France. Also a good place to find kitschy garments and unique gifts for family and friends. Whether or not you shop, I am sure you will be delighted by the trip. Note however that these are not permanent establishments, more like travelling markets, talk to the locals and find out which ones will be operational when you are around. If you travel around Christmas like I did, there are Christmas Markets (Marche de Noel) everywhere. Make sure you drink some hot wine. Absolutely divine and surprisingly intoxicating.

Local produce from Lyon, displayed in a Sunday Market

·        Gorge on French food: I am amazed at how this travelogue is turning into a food guide! Well, anyway EAT FRENCH FOOD! Forget your biryani and palak paneer and idli when you are here. Give in to the stinky cheese (stinkier the better), the sublime wine and gorgeous fresh bread. It is not true that there is a dearth of vegetarian options. You just need to know how to get the message across. I have spent days eating desserts for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Croissants, crepes, pain au chocolat, tarte aux pommes; the list is endless and these are very pocket friendly and just the thing you need while walking around on the streets. If sitting and dining is more your style, then check out my post Restaurant Hopping in La Belle France for a list of places to eat that I loved.

Fromage everywhere

      Use public transport: I am not giving this as advice to the planet, do this for yourself. It is a nice and easy way to hear French around you, observe the people and their culture. Each city is different, from the students of Montpellier to the hip young crowd in Lyon to the eclectic mix of nationalities in Paris. Take a seat at the back and watch quietly as France reveals itself to you. Special perk for me was dog watching while travelling; you just have to get your pet a ticket and he/she can travel with you on the train or tram or bus.

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           Revel in Public spaces: The beautiful ‘squares’ or parks located in all parts of the city. Green, open spaces where people come to chill, to read, to skate board, to picnic, to dance, to sing, to celebrate New year. Little islands of total freedom where you can do your thing, whatever it is. I sat here and took pictures.

Peyrou, a beautiful park in Montpellier

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The central square in Lyon, where a Vespa club meeting is in full swing

     Visit a small town:  Find one that fits in your plan but absolutely you must do it. The French countryside with the large stretches of vineyards, clear blue skies, crisp pure air, and perfect fully formed rainbows. This is the stuff that dream vacations are made of. Nothing spells UNWIND like a couple of days doing nothing but eating farm fresh produce and sipping locally made wine.

Quaint houses on the streets of Obernai

Vineyards, blue skies and sunshine

 As I read what I have written, it becomes evident to me that most of this can be done only if you spend a decent amount of time in a country. I spent almost a month in France, starting in the South with Montpellier, moving northwards to Lyon, then Paris, then Strasbourg then on to the border of Germany to Obernai. Take your time, see the sights but also experience things that are not written in guide books or blogs such as these.

Finding neverland and a rainbow!

Sri Lanka.. A land like no other!!

For a country ravaged by strife and natural calamities, the lovely Sri Lankans are the warmest, most genuine people I have ever come across, and despite the immense beauty of nature that my senses feasted on, the people are what I hold closest to my heart.

Seven women, ages 55 to 20 embarked on an adventure to this spectacular country and heres what we encountered:

• Colombo Fort station:- Beautiful, colonial, mostly wooden construction. As we sat outside the station, after unsuccessfully trying to book tickets to Kandy, contemplating taking a cab, a stranger told us of another train that we can take that would cost us a fifth of the taxi fare. A person who loved his country, eager that visitors feel the same way as him.
• Arrival in Kandy : Sevana Guest House is run buy a fabulous woman Shakuntala. She opened her doors and her heart to us.
• Looking around Kandy : The winding roads of a quaint little hill town,the women police officers in skirts, the glimmering Kandy lake and a million bakeries. Believe me when I say my nose was leading the way.
• Nuwara Eliya:  Astounding natural beauty. Tea estates as far as the eye can see, incredibly pretty flowers growing by the side of the road, luscious fresh veggies and fruits stacked for sale at street corners. This was the Europe of my dreams.
• Horton Plains National Park: A nine km hike through vast stretches of wilderness. Three fiesty women in sarees, refusing to listen to people who said you need pants and shoes to complete the walk. Found peace and tranquility as we challenged our bodies and endless laughs as we pulled each others legs.

•        Worlds End: A view to die for. Not a building or a bus in sight. Pure untouched nature; hills, trees,rivers all the way upto the ocean.

Fiesty mum!

• Galle: A settlement within the walls of a fort. A throwback into the days when you were happy as a pedestrian and were more likely to get hit by a stray cricket ball than a garbage truck. Sitting on the fort walls, watching the waves crash into them; no better way to spend an evening.
• Unawatuna: Just saying the word takes  me into a reverie of blue skies, golden sand and the vivacious Indian ocean. Sprawled out on a beach chair, guzzling the local arrack and having the waves kiss my feet. I may have never been at more peace with myself.

Perfect!

• Colombo: Fiesty and friendly at the same time. A city that lets you revel in yourself, that is eager to see you smile so it can smile back at you. 

  

  Posing by Kandy Lake

Namaste Nepal

People smoking in the airport,
Plummeting down an eighty degree slope in a taxi,
Delicious wood fired pizza and cold ginger beer,
Listening to a 8yr old sing "we dont need no education"
Intoxicating, overwhelming, astounding, exciting...NEPAL!

Blue cross hospital for people,
A cell phone charging point with a "charge at ur own risk" board,
An educational photo shoot with women clinging on to barbed wire fences!,
Getting hit by a taxi in Thamel,
Surprising, confusing, amazing, dangerous... NEPAL!

Discovering the pure, untouched beauty of Bandipur,
Meeting wonderfully warm people,
Eating fabulously yummy food,
Being in the presence of true love,
Exhilarating, relaxing,fattening, uplifting...NEPAL!!

The phool patti restaurant in gorkha,
The gloom of not seeing the mountains,
Discovering that my body can take a steep climb of 6hrs under the merciless sun,
The thunderstorm that revealed the beautiful snow capped peaks,
Hilarious, depressing, awe inducing, exhausting....NEPAL!!

Exploring the valley alone!
Learning to communicate in ali ali Nepali
Taking a million photographs,
Meeting a nepali who has seen more of India than me,
Eye opening, educational, therapeutic, fascinating....NEPAL!!

Coffee and breakfast with misha n phil,
The wonderfulness of getting to really know phil,
Getting tipsy and acting weird over a 6 course meal,
Bringing back a bag full of souveneirs and a heart full of lovely memories,
Fabulous, familiar, heartwarming, heart wrenching...NEPAL!!

This ones dedicated to my favourite couple...mish n phil!!